APPLICATION OF SWAN MODEL FOR HINDCASTING WAVE HEIGHT IN JEPARA COASTAL WATERS, NORTH JAVA, INDONESIA
Keywords:
WAN Model, Hindcasting, Jepara Coastal Waters, Significant Wave Height, ValidationAbstract
SWAN (Simulating Wave Near-shore) is a numerical wave model for hindcasting/forecasting
wave parameters in coastal areas. This numerical model is chosen because is suitable for shallow water. This
study was conducted to verify the results of wave height hindcasting in Jepara coastal waters. This is expected
to support wave characteristic research based on wave forecasting for 10 years in the waters between Java,
Sumatera and Kalimantan. The model is run with the third-generation mode (GEN3), which allow wind input,
quadruplet and triad interactions, whitecapping, and breaking. Wind data is obtained from ECMWF (European
Centre for Medium-Range Weather Forecasts) and the bathymetry from GEBCO (General Bathymetric Chart
of The Oceans). The validation of the model and buoy data during July - December 1993 shows a good result
(Root Mean Square Error = 0.166 and correlation/ linear regression = 0.807). Based on the literature,
qualitatively the model has been verified with other simulation from another model in the same location.